That time I visited the two highest rated restaurants in Mexico - back-to-back
Pujol and Quintonil, which in my imagination are in a constant war for attention, got a lot of my money, and my love, on my last trip to Mexico City.
I wasn’t entirely sure how I booked back-to-back meals at the two most sought-after dinining experiences in Mexico, but I did, and while my digestive system was entirely confused, my heart was full, and my wallet empty.
First up - Quintonil for dinner.
While Pujol gets a LOT of attention, Quintonil has ranked higher than Pujol for a couple of years now on the World’s Best Restaurants list.*
I’m a huge fan of a prix fixe menu - mainly because I want to try EVERYTHING, and since I travel alone that can not only be wasteful, but expensive - and I can NEVER decide and have serious FOMO when finally choosing.
Quintonil offers the most extensive (and expensive) tasting menu of the two establishments. It’s vast - nine courses in the main dining room, I believe.
But let’s start with the initial experience. You can’t find it. Seriously. I walked in the rain for blocks before I finally found the tiny and unassuming awning. Ok - yes, my phone would have helped, but it was raining, and my driver dropped me off a few doors away. But, I digress …
I was almost an hour early. Which isn’t unusual for me. But rather embarrassing. They just smiled and said “lovely, you can wait in our lounge and have a drink.” Well, it was more of a living room than a lounge, and sure enough, I was presented with a drink menu as soon as I sat down. I ordered a white wine, and enjoyed it while waiting - and, was never charged for it - which I assume was intentional. Yes, this was a very nice, welcoming, lovely touch.
The comfy lounge
My friend arrived, and we were sat in the dining room which is more on the warm/traditional side. It felt, well, to use the same word, “welcoming.” This is an important detail as restaurants with this reputation and quality can sometimes feel a bit cold.
And the welcoming and warm service continued throughout the meal. Incredibly friendly - I forgot that I was about to spend nearly $300 US on a meal.
I was presented with a menu detailing what was to come, but nothing prepared me for the seemingly endless treats that were soon in front of me.
Course after course (I won’t go into them here as they change frequently) were astonishing. Inventive, accessible, unbelievably delicious, and honest to Mexican roots.
Every single dish was special. Every single taste was an adventure.
This is a nearly three-hour experience. And they take their time. I never felt rushed to finish a course. I never felt like they were waiting to clear the table for the next guest. I was left alone to enjoy my course, and when done, plates and silverware were swiftly ushered away by a very well-oiled and trained staff.
Again - each course was beyond the other - so I just present to you photos from the experience.
And 12 hours later … Pujol
The darling of the CDMX dining scene, Pujol, was next. After waiting for a year for a reservation, we finally showed up at the heavily guarded entry in a posh Polanco neighborhood.
Pujol ain’t playin’
There was a line as seating is completed in 2.5-hour increments. So, yes, it felt a bit like boarding a cruise - minus the lays - complete with a line of servers and managers waiting to greet you.
Ok - I’m officially intimidated at this point.
It quickly became apparent this experience would be entirely different than Quintonil. Not in a bad way - just different. More modern. More experience-focused. More tourists, who, like me, have probably been waiting years for this moment.
The dining room takes your breath away. Incredibly contemporary and anchored by a stunning tree right in the middle of the entryway separating the bar from the dining area. We were seated near the bar which gave us a great view of the dining room. Which leads me to one of my favorite photos ever …
Service is swift and efficient. A LOT is getting ready to happen. Still incredibly friendly (I rarely dine in Mexico without gracious service - no matter the price) and also helpful. Our server and his staff were there for US - it was clear - and no need would be ignored.
The service is the magic of Pujol. It’s such a well-oiled machine, my companion and I sat dazzled by all that was happening around us.
If you even flinched, a server was there to check on you. Need the restroom (more on that later), just barely rise, and there is someone there to escort you.
About that restroom - it was magical. Piped in nature sounds - birds chirping, trees rustling - individual impeccably designed stalls - the restroom was a destination in and of itself. I found myself returning even when I didn’t need to return. Yeap - it was that cool.
We were presented with a lovely wax-sealed envelope and invited to open it to discover the eight courses to look forward to.
Soon, the courses started to arrive. Pujol is obviously much more focused on indiengous Mexican foods - huge amounts of emphasis places on history - and the stories are well shared by your servers.
Note: English speakers? You will have no issues here.
Yes, the food was astonishing. The flavors nuanced, textures interesting, and presented as art.
I will say, this is a much more subtle food experience than Quintonil. While Quintonil’s food was a bit more impressive to me, the flavors of Pujol were obviously finely crafted.
It’s not a “fill up your tummy” kind of place - which should be clear to anyone dining here. The servings are small, but perfectly crafted.
As in Quintonil, I really can’t remark on each course, however the final course, a medley of Mole is what makes this place famous.
I’m not even a mole fan - bordering on not even enjoying mole - but even I appreciated the layered flavors of two types of moles presented to me.
In the end - I believe one or two additional hearty courses would have been welcome. The experience is the star here - not to take away from the food - but I don’t believe that’s what you’ll be left with.
In the end - I just can’t compare the two. While Quintonil offered an extravaganza of treats, Pujol blew me away with the experience. So - a dead-heat tie. Quintonil for food. Pujol for experience. Both equally loved and impressive.
Will I dine at either again? Likely not. This is really a once-in-a-lifetime event. And, far many more culinary experiences in CDMX.
But talk about an amazing 12 hours of food.
Unforgettable.
